FAQ’s

The first thing we want to do is assess your floor to determine whether or not we need to complete any repairs. Is it just minor scratches that we are dealing with or is there something more serious happening? If no repairs are needed then we can simply remove the stains, paint, etc. with an approved floor cleaner.

It is important to sweep and ensure that there is no debris on the floor. Leaving granules of sand can cause scratches and other issues during the buffing process.

During this step we will use our sanding machines to remove all the scratches and wear and tear in the floor. If this is just a minor job then we can simply buffer off the old finish and there will be no need to go down to the timber.

We will be using various sanding grits with decreasing abrasiveness. In between each grit, we will need to clean up. As well, once the sanding is completed, we will do a final cleaning to prep the floor for sealing.

Sealing the floor isn’t always required but if your floor doesn’t appear to be soaking up the stain evenly then you will want to apply a sealant. It never hurts to seal the floor as it does create a nice even look and it also protects your wooden floor.

Now it is time to apply the stain or oil that was previously used on your wooden floor. Applying a couple of thin coats is better than using one thick coat of stain.

GJP Floor Sanding uses specially manufactured strips of reclaimed pine, the strips are glued with a D3 PVA glue and hammered into the gaps before being chiselled off and polished back. To give you a more detailed overview of the process:

Re-nail floor, punching all nail heads into the floor 3-4mm deep

Clean joints out carefully, taking care not to catch any electric cables/water pipes, etc

Take the wedges (“Slivers”), place them into the joints (ie. the gaps between the boards) to check that the Sliver ‘seems at home’. Remove Sliver and put glue down each side. Now place Sliver into the gap, take a hammer and bounce it up along the Sliver, forcing it into the gap. The further it goes in, the better. The Slivers will squash the boards up

• Never use water to clean your floors. Always use an approved floor cleaner.
• Do not use tile or vinyl floor cleaners on your beautiful wood floor. They can cause your floor to become slippery and appear dull.
• Never wet-mop a wood floor as the standing water can stain or damage the wood. Also, remember, we said not to use water to clean your floor.
• Dust mop, sweep or vacuum your hard floor regularly to keep it looking shiny and new.

After the work is completed, you will be able to walk on it after 3 hours, however, the floor lacquer will take 2 weeks to fully cure. As such:

• Be careful when moving your furniture back.
• Use felt protectors on the feet of your furniture.
• Wait at least 72 hours before placing your rugs or doormats back down.
• If possible, wait at least 72 hours before moving any heavy furniture back into the room.
• Do not use any water or cleaner on your floor for the first 2 weeks.
• Try to minimize the volume of foot traffic.

Long-term maintenance :

In order to keep your floor looking amazing for years to come, we recommend the following:

• Use doormats at the interior and exterior of the front and back doors to collect dirt and water.
• Put a sheet or cloth underneath any heavy furniture prior to moving it.
• Use a damp towel to wipe up any messes or spills. Try to clean spills immediately after they happen.
• Try to keep your pets nails trimmed as their long claws can create scratches in your beautiful, new floor.
• Use foot protectors on all furniture.
• Try not to walk on your wooden floor in high-heels as these can cause serious damage to your floor.
• If you have a wood floor in your kitchen, place a mat at the sink to protect against wear and tear as well as water damage.
• Use a humidifier in the winter to keep the boards from moving too much